Argosy Restaurant Review

Some years ago one of my frequent luncheon companions adopted the rule that he would not dine in any establishment where the servers had tattoos or piercings, fearing the incidence of transmission of hepatitis C was greater because of it. The confluence of two thoughts finally changed his mind: 1) I pointed out to him that he could no longer dine out, with the exception of a restaurant that was Glatt Kosher (given the Jews’ aversion to tattoos) and 2: I further enlightened him that tattoos and piercings were like wild animals in the woods – whether you see one or not, they are still lurking in the bush, so to speak.

With those thoughts in mind, Mrs. C and I stopped in for Sunday brunch at Argosy. In addition to being the oldest patrons there, we were also the only ones, staff and customers alike, without body art of any kind. Not to worry, however, we were graciously welcomed and saw no hint of discrimination. Having dined there once before, I went with the idea of ordering one of their pizzas topped with a lightly fried egg, which, when the pie was sliced, allowed the yolk to run and create a beautiful richness and mouth feel to the already exceptional example. Alas, in between visits they had changed chefs, and the new one, for reasons unknown to me, apparently feels that pizza should not be served before 3:00. Moving to my second choice, I had what was described as a house made, house smoked hot dog, topped with pimento cheese and a jalapeno jam. It seems that topping every possible meat item with pimento cheese, bacon, and jams of multiple origins has reached epidemic proportions and is now almost a cliché rather than a mark of creativity, but who really cares when it works as well as it did on that hot dog.

Mrs. C had an impeccably fresh spinach salad with apple slivers and lovely dressing with a hint of curry. My only complaint has to do with truth in menu labeling. My hot dog should have been more accurately described as a “hot dogette”, allowing me ample notice that it would be one half the length of what one normally expects of a hot dog. At $5.00 it came accompanied by some exceptional fries and all things considered was not really overpriced. What I would have liked was the option to order two of them with one order of fries at a price somewhere in the middle of what a double order would have cost. Service was pleasant from Tatiana, who had an outfit (and tattoo) that while I can’t begin to describe its various aspects, suited both her frame and her personality perfectly.

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